Of Towns and Townsfolk

I pen these thoughts upon the eve of our departure from Volterra.

Having first come into the city from Rome, we were marvelously delighted at the change of pace and the change of scenery. No more hurtling Smart© Cars to dodge in the midst of scooters and motorbikes. No more angry waiters trying to rob us in broad daylight. No more throngs of tourists. But still plenty of gelato, for which Natasha in particular was very grateful.

Having gotten lost the moment we drove to Volterra, we consulted the nearest shopkeeper at the Enoteca Scalia in what appeared to be some type of town piazza (square). His name is Massimo and he is such a G. He gave us complete directions to the seminary we were going to stay at (right at the gas station, past the hospital), gave us a recommendation for dinner (La Vecchia Lira, up the street, you'll see it), and Ron and I felt so touched by his generosity and kindness that we had to buy a Chianti. So we did.

The seminary was an interesting place to stay. It is run by what appears to be some kind of family. There is a closing and opening time, because the owners/operators don't keep someone up during the night hours. The seminary itself had many paintings of the Virgin Mary and Christ, as well as saints and apostles and various Biblical scenes. The room we stayed in had a temperamental lock. There were five beds all arranged side by side, with night tables in between with small lamps, and were very simple but mostly comfortable as well. Sleeping in the seminary was nowhere near as frightening as it could otherwise have been. For example, if it was not a seminary it would have been petrifying at minimum. Trusting in the Holy Ghost to take residence there, and not any other kind of ghost, we slept peacefully throughout the night.

Volterra itself is an originally Etruscan town that was consequently modified and built up by the Romans. Around the city there is a wall built originally by the Etruscans. In this wall, there is a gate known as the Etruscan Gate, where three stone heads can be seen protruding, one at the top (Zeus), and two at the side-ends of the archway. The other two are believe to have been two sons of Zeus - one of whom was perhaps Deucalion (I forget, check Wikipedia). According to Ronald, this archway supposedly lent the idea of archways with keystones to Roman architects. Quite the claim, and quite uncanny if true. The town has a myriad of restaurants and touristy gift shops - most of the tourists here were themselves from Italy, however. Tuscany is a popular place after all. At the top of the hill of shops, there is a spectacular panoramic view of the surrounding Tuscan countryside, and on one side to the West, you can even see unto the Mediterranean Sea beyond the coastal hills.

Reviewing this landscape was a magical experience. The extent of the land - green, rolling hills and pastures - patches of mismatched crop squares on the landscape - neatly arranged Olive trees. I tried to imagine what it looked like in 50 B.C.E., when the Romans were masters of Italy and this must have been enormously valuable land. How many places where two mighty armies might clash upon the upon plain?

Sadly, words are poor magicians. I shall leave some of that magic to the upcoming photographs. But to witness the legerdemain for yourself, you shall have to be at this place in person. There is only so much emotion that can be transmitted via these useless vessels we call language.